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Spanish 'Pata negra' or Italian 'San Daniele'
  Spanish 'Pata negra' or Italian 'San Daniele' : a difficult choice !

Ham has for centuries been of historical, cultural and economic importance for continental Europe, with production covering an area from the Iberian peninsula, to Italy, France and all of western and central Europe. The historical roots can be found in the development of the rural societies in the foothills of the major European mountain chains.
 

Ham is, therefore, one of the most genuinely European products available, as is swine-breeding itself. The Gourmet Store presents you two remarkable sorts of ham explaining their origin, their tradition and their quality. Judge yourself ....
 

The Spanish Jamon Iberico (Iberian ham) is the name which is given exclusively to hams from the Iberian pig breed. The Iberian pig is the last pig breed in Europe living in the open, typically under the oak trees growing in the Spanish mountains in Andalusia and Extremadura. . Its origin goes back to the ancient Mediterranean wild boar. It is said that the micro climate of these hills is ideal for the oak trees which provide the acorns on which the pigs feed.

One of the finest and most expensive Iberian ham is known under the name 'Pata negra de bellota'. Pata negra is the popular name for the Iberian pig referring to the animal's black hooves. You will only find this ham in specialized shops and prices of 140 €/kilo for sliced ham are not exceptional. If you buy it per piece (with bone) you will pay about 80 €/kilo. Let us explain why this ham is so expensive.

The Iberian pig is rare and very well protected and the production of its ham is limited in quantity and is submitted to extrelemy severe regulations. E.g. Not more than 15 pigs per hectare are allowed.

The keyword of the secret of its taste is acorns. During the 'montanera', the period during which the pigs reside in the mountains, their favourite food is acorns from the oak trees. When the pigs are exclusively fed with acorns, the ham will be labeled 'de bellota' (the best). If they have been fed with a mixture of acorns and other food, the ham will be labeled 'recebo'. The pigs are killed as from 12 months but their weight may never exceed 180 kg at the moment of their killing.

The traditional methods of pickling, rinsing, conservation, drying and maturement or aging of the hams in cellars guarantee a high quality product. The ham's drying cycle goes from winter to summer so that the rising temperature allows the natural grease to spread through the tissues. After the summer the ham is put in special cellars for the final drying process (about 24 months).

Pata negra ham contains 25-30% of grease but is a very healthy ham. The composition of the grease is similar to that of olive oil and is dominated by mono-unsaturated fatty acids which have a positive influence on the body (see our article about olive oil). Thanks to this healthy grease this ham melts in your mouth liberating the unique flavour of this ham. Iberian ham is served at room temperature in small slices cut in a specific way.

One of the most famous villages specialized in the elaboration of Pata negra is Jabugo in Huelva, which is part of the area of the appelation of origin Jamon Iberico. The Gourmet Store offers a real 'Pata negra' Iberian ham de bellota from Jabugo at exceptional prices.

Go to the product page Jamon Iberico (info and prices).

The village of San Daniele is situated on a morainal hill on the left bank of the river Tagliamento and just a stone's throw away from the first slopes of the Pre-Alps. Cool air arrives from the north, warm air arrives from the Adriatic and both are mixed by the course of the river which acts as a natural conductor and air-conditioner. The gravelly soil with its excellent drainage qualities, and the refined and constant ventilation, provide the ideal conditions for the curing of ham.

The swines used for the preparation of Prosciutto di San Daniele come from 11 of the Italian regions where they are born, raised and slaughtered. The swine must be of the traditional breeds (Large White and Landrace) and possibly crossed with Duroc, but must, nonetheless, meet the requirements set by the National Genealogical Book for the "heavy Italian swine". In particular, they must develop a weight of no less than 160 kg at the time of slaughter, and be of a minimum 9 months of age. A series of breeds are excluded from the careful selection, as well as boars and sows. The selected swine are fed a rigorous diet which is set according to a number of permitted (or prohibited) ingredients.

To guarantee compliance to this regulated production, breeders must :

mark the piglets at birth with a tattoo, which identifies the farm and the month of birth, on both hind legs;
certify the adult swine before slaughter
The presence of the foot is not only a tribute to tradition, but also has a precise technical reason for being. Apart from the fact that the leg maintains its biological integrity, keeping the leg whole aids drainage of liquid from even the difficult regions (with respect to the force of gravity). The slaughterer, who must also establish that the breeders have adhered to the production regulations, in their turn stamp the fresh pork legs with their own identification code.
Nutritional features : the fat content of the pork decreased significantly in recent years, but more importantly, the quality of the fat has improved.

Firstly, the component of saturated acids in the fat which is consumed along with prosciutto has fallen to 30%, while 75% of unsaturated acids is made up of mono unsaturated acids (the same characteristics of olive oil, see our article). Secondly, the level of cholesterol is equal to that in beef and in fish such as sole. Finally, the total fat content of trimmed prosciutto (where the outer-lying fat has been removed) is between 3 and 5% of the total edible part.

All the credit for this goes to the swine. Thanks to the animals strict diet, it has a greater quantity of lean meat, with a thinner layer of fat below the skin (but not too thin), and above all bears a large quantity of essential proteins. These proteins are characterised by their elevated quality, thanks to the production of free amino acids which help digestion and the absorption of the proteins themselves. Not to mention the other important nutritional elements, such as iron, zinc, and the B group vitamins.

The nutritional break-down of trimmed prosciutto is as follows : water 58%, protein 29%, fat 5% with an energy value of only 159 kilocalories. If we add to these features the fact that Prosciutto di San Daniele has an average salt content (sodium chloride or sea salt) of 5.9%, we can definitively consolidate the exceptional nutritional profile of the product.

However, it must be remembered the additives are excluded from the production of Prosciutto di San Daniele, whereas for the production of non D.O.P. prosciutto they may even be considered essential.

Go to the product page San Daniele (info and prices).

For more info about these products, please visit the sites San Daniele and Jamon Iberico (with step-by step cut demonstration)

 


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